Ah, Morocco. Sounds romantic, yes? Makes you think of spice markets, glistening apricots and dates, steamy cups of floral tea…
And I’m sure there are places in Morocco like that–there have to be, right? But the day I spent in Tangier didn’t offer the same experience.
When I was in high school, my parents took me to the coast of Spain (yeah, I’m spoiled). My father, the man with endless wanderlust, was enchanted with the idea of taking the hydrofoil over to Morocco for a day. I wasn’t so sure about that little detour, but a girl lucky enough to be in Spain doesn’t complain.
With my typical vacationing luck, I’d contracted a nasty sinus infection the day before we flew to Spanish shores, so I hacked all over the hydrofoil, garnering venomous stares from anyone in my vicinity.
When we disembarked, I was struck by two things: the blazing heat and the sense of suffocation. We were engulfed in colors, fabrics, beads, copper pots, rugs. Beggars tugged on my dress, my arms, my hands. We were literally awash in a tide of desperate people, all with something to sell–shouting, yelling, banging on drums.
For someone who loves nothing more than a book, a big chair and a quiet room, this was kinda traumatic. I remember hunching into myself, trying to shrink so that nobody would accost me, holding my hands over my ears to block out the catcalls and music. I’d been in some bustling markets before, where the sellers aggressively pitched their wares–markets in Mexico and Chinatown–but this was a market on steroids. I struggled for breath, sucking in gasps of hot, dusty air.
Eventually, the initial crush of peddlers thinned out, so I could actually regain my breath and see the marketplace itself. There were huge bins of whole spices, sacks of saffron and couscous, tea leaves baking in the sun, and those mounds of dates–they were everywhere. They were also…moving. I had to stop a minute and blink repeatedly, wondering if the antibiotics and the close quarters were inducing a Timothy Leary moment.
Blink. Blink. Nope. Not hallucinating. Those bins of dates were still moving. And then a hand with a huge fan in it swooped down and hundreds of flies took flight. Bile churning in my gut, I turned away to look at something else and my gaze landed on a stand with dozens of slaughtered chickens hanging upside down. Not good for the old nausea.
Then our tour guide cheerfully took us to lunch.
The restaurant looked clean enough, but my mother and I feasted on bottled water and watched, in horror, as my father tucked into his couscous and tagine. “What?” he said, as we gawked. “What’s the matter with you?” We shrugged sheepishly and focused on the portly belly dancers, who were enthusiastically shakin’ their bacon.
The highlight of the day was stopping by the snake charmer. We watched as a wizened man hovered over a big straw basket, gyrating madly, blowing hard and fast into his instrument, and out popped…the oldest, scrawniest, most moth-eaten snake you’ve ever seen. This reptile looked so damn tired, so over it, that my mother and I burst into shrieks of hysterical mirth, much to the snake charmer’s displeasure.
The tour guide hastily scurried us toward the waiting hydrofoil and my father, shaking his head, muttered, “Je-sus. I can’t take you two anywhere.”
I know that day sounds kind of nightmarish, but it’s one of my all-time favorite travel memories. I’m odd that way.
The recipe I’m sharing with you today channels a much more pleasant kind of Morocco. The movie-star version of Morocco.
Oh my, this is a seductive little salad. It may not look like much, but believe me, this salad is working it: it’s got exotic spice, a little tang, a fresh hit of mint and the heady crunch of almond. Your senses are going to perk right up when you take the first forkful.
If you wish, you can add a sprinkle of feta cheese and call this lunch, which is what I did.
It also makes a great accompaniment to grilled lamb chops; particularly if you marinate them in olive oil, lemon and thyme. Light some candles, pour a nice chilled Sauvingnon Blanc, and you’re rocking the Casbah.
Moroccan Carrot Salad
serves 6 to 8
slightly adapted from Bon Appetit magazine
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground coriander
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
pinch of ground cloves
1/3 cup olive oil
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup fresh orange juice
3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
1 pound carrots, peeled and coarsely grated
4 cups mixed baby greens
1 small sweet onion, thinly sliced
1 cup sliced toasted almonds
Whisk first 7 ingredients together in a large bowl. Whisk in olive oil, lemon juice and orange juice. Add mint. Add carrots and baby greens and toss to coat. Season to taste with salt and pepper, top with onion and serve.
{ 50 comments… read them below or add one }
If I make this, will I all of a sudden be able to charm an over-the-hill snake? Or maybe speak parseltongue? Oh, wait … wrong movie.
(Sounds delicious!!)
I had a similar experience with street vendors in a coastal town in Turkey. Those people were so agressive I thought i was being attacked and couldn’t wait to escape the scene. But this salad? Me likey.
Oh hell. I’ll say it.
HERE’S LOOKIN AT YOU KID!
i’m so jealous! of all the places to visit, i think morocco would be awesome, if only for the grub. great story–i can relate. :)
I’ve long said I don’t want to go to Morocco, now I’m coming around to change my mind. Not because of your post, because the opportunity will no longer be there if we move to the States. Sad to be anywhere on holiday and be ill, but esp. in a foreign culture. Your salad looks great – esp. without the flies!
Great story! As for the salad it sounds wonderful
What a fantastic memory! I’ve always wanted to visit Morocco. The food and scene sounds like a whirlwind of color and aromas.
I enjoyed your story with my morning coffee. Happy to not be subjected to hoards of flies, heat and a sinus infection while so doing. And I thank you for the salad recipe as I was thinking of something to remind me of warmer days after looking at the temperature this morning–12 degrees!
Best,
Bonnie
Too funny – I also often enjoy the harried, scary travel moments – especially in hindsight. My brothers and I laugh over many incidents from way back when my parents lived in Europe and had not yet acclimated to their new ‘ hood. Anyway…. looks good (scary bug story and all).
Wow, that’s quite an experience you had. Just reading your description of the market has me wanting to crawl under my desk from sensory overload. I can’t wait to try your movie star version of Morocco.
Wow, all those spices in a salad sound wonderful! I can’t wait to try this one out on the guys.
Did the people in the market try to touch your blonde hair? That used to happen to me in Mexico all the time.
You tell the absolute best stories ever.
I loved hearing about your traveling adventures. I went to Cairo last year with my sister, and I remember feeling the same suffocating feelings. I’m an introvert, so all of the people, the smells, the cars, the pollution was too much for me! However, I had a lovely time after I adjusted :-) I have wanted to visit Morocco for some time now, and while my pocket book can’t afford that quite yet, I can make this salad! It looks delicious. Thank you so much for sharing. I hope your week is full of joy!
You have the best stories…my childhood pales in comparison!! Did you see The Office’s Moroccan Christmas episode? It’s one of my favorites. BTW, I’m going to search your site for lamb…I’m making it for Matt and I’ve never done it before! Help, I’m a lamb virgin!!
What a great story–and beautifully written! I never made it to Morocco . . . though I did catch a glimpse of the African coast from Gibraltar. I love your description of the flavors of the salad.
Yum. SUPER YUM. This might even be kid friendly without the Cayenne. And as for the travel adventures, thats half of whats great about travel! Getting out of your comfort zone and exploring another reality. Good for you pops tucking into his meal too – I would have been right there with him! Now when are you taking your kids to Morroco???!?! That will be high adventure!
Kind of jealous of your travels, not gonna lie! This looks wonderful and healthy. I can just imagine the flavor!
PS. You can come to my wine and cheese party next year. Something tells me we’d get along! ;)
Ew – flies flying all over the food?! I would have been like you and your Mom and just stuck with plain water – a bit too exotic for me! :D
What a great memory! And poor snake…he was ready for retirement!
This salad sounds like a perfect compliment to an Indian meal. Will definitely try it.
I love your stories! And we’ll try this salad for sure!
“Rockin the Casbah”?! I love you.
This story is hilarious (and I love Moroccan-style carrot salad — yum!). You *have* to write a collection of ill-fated travel stories, and tie in the foods you experience and that they inspire. You always make me laugh out loud with these tales.
The recipe had me with the first seven spices — how I wish I could suggest this as a variation on the carrot salad that makes its appearance every year on my mother-in-law’s table! (Doubt it’ll fly since the majority of the family has a decidedly unadventurous palate.)
Your story about the market reminded me of my trip to Jos, Nigeria and going through the market there. Gave me a claustrophobic and very insecure feeling–much as you described.
Your father sounds very interesting too.
This sounds fantastic. Unfortunately, I think I’m going to have to eat this one solo. For the life of me, I can’t seem to convince my family that it’s a meal if it doesn’t contain meat. I know. My life is so hard.
I loved reading about your trip. I felt like I was right there with you! I think all of those dead chickens would have turned me into a vegetarian right then and there. Oh, and those flies. Gag!
Your carrot salad is completely gorgeous! I love the bold, flavorful spices and the citrus in here. Do you think I could sub fresh grated ginger for the ground ginger?
Hi TKW- it’s been way to long!
Not a big carrot eater but I’d eat this in a heart beat, I’ll be making it this summer for sure.
I love this story! What a fantastic memory. You are a lucky girl!
Ah Kitch,
The senses. That is Moroco. And Spain. At least for me. We went to Spain the summer after my mother died. We took our kids, daughter 7, son 3. It might be the best trip of my life. But I’ve had some pretty good travels. I know, I’m spoiled too.
My heart was so open that trip. Grieving and Living simultaneously. I remember the streets most of all. Made out of those stones I collected at the beach, all cobbled together to draw pictures of flowers or vines…right there for me to walk on.
My daughter was so hungry. Because nothing there tasted familiar. And she was like you: eager for quiet and her book. Margharita pizza saved us there. I remember one night at dinner the tears leaking out of her eyes, “I miss home food.” I love the way she tells this story today. So grown, so stretched. Just part of the beads and beggars mayhem.
Could I come move into your brain?
Ooh – that looks delicious! Though of all the cities to visit in Morocco – Tangiers? I mean, sure, it is right across the way. But it’s also the sketchy waterfront town!
I love your stories! This makes me want to bust out the episode of Absolutely Fabulous in which they visit Morocco…
Only you can incorporate a story with literal flies swarming over everything and a good meal. Gave me the heebie-jeebies and made me hungry all at the same time!
The salad looks wonderful the experience I would rather enjoy second hand. You laughed at a poor over-the-hill snake doing his best to charm you..? Well I guess along with everything else you had experienced…being a little giggly is understandable. Poor snake.
♥
That carrot salad looks delish….
Looks yummy! I enjoyed your memories of drinking bottled water for lunch. It reminded me of our many trips to Tijuana when I was a kid (I grew up in San Diego). Though, admittedly Tijuana doesn’t have the same appeal as Morocco… far from it! :)
Many travel memories are best in hindsight. You provided quite a lively and colorful description of your Moroccan experience. Although, I get a lot of my energy externally, this place would overwhelm me too. Still provided the opportunity, I would oh so be there :-)
Colorful, concrete, vigorous storytelling, as usual – loved reading this. I could have used your help with a writing class this semester! Too bad I was stuck persuading so many of the students that accidentally incomplete sentences are kind of a big deal.
Glistening apricots, like this carrot salad you’re kindly sharing, are the stuff of daydreams – Piles of dates humming and heaving with flies? Not so much. (Had a fly episode here recently that is too unsavory to go into, but blech. I’ll just say I’m extra sensitive.)
I totally need more salad ideas. This is awesome. I have a mother who hates lettuce and children who hate most vegetables. Thanks!
That looks so so good! I can’t wait to try it.
Incidentally, though I’m quite sure it doesn’t compare, that’s a bit how I felt in New York in August. I’m a small town girl, don’t spend much time traipsing through big cities, but it felt like an onslaught on my senses. Too much!
Morocco sounds like an amazing place to visit.
Thanks for the awesome description. Maybe the sportsman and I need to change our vacation location.
Ewwww, moving food? Dead chickens? This actually reminds me of visiting China Town in NY when I was a kid. Gag.
Oh. My. God. The thought of seeing your father scarf down the local delicacy as you and your mother feast on bottled water was hysterical. But the vision of a half dead snake was just too much. Tell me, exactly, how a half dead snake looks over it…I am pretty sure a picture could have NEVER done the situation justice.
THANK YOU for the laugh. I so needed it today.
My honey will be all over this recipe! And if it’s got feta in it my kids will dive right in – I know, they’re weird! As for your travels??? There’s a reason I will likely never fly across the ocean to some foreign land – well your reasons plus I’d surely hyperventilate on the plane ride!
My only experience with Morocco is at Epcot. Very reasonable there. Based on your experience, I think that’ll suffice. And they have great food too.
I went over to a friend’s house for dinner this weekend for our annual “Let’s make latkes and pretend we’re not bad Jews” feast. At this feast, there was a delicious carrot salad.
“Where’d you get the recipe?” I inquired.
“Oh, I found it on one of the food-blogs on your blogroll.”
“The Kitchen Witch?”
“Yeah! Her writing’s great and her recipes sound delicious.”
And so it was that, without really doing much of anything, I found myself eating this Moroccan Carrot Salad.
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